|
|---|
|
|
|
|
C. Dedicated to William Cattley, a 19th century English horticulturist: one of the earliest persons to build a collection of exotic orchids. This genus is called the "Corsage" Orchid Cattleyas are among the most commonly grown orchids, and their culture is often used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids. The flowers in cattleya and their related hybrids come in many colors. Culture varies only slightly among most of these groups; this cultural information is a general guide to "standard cattleya" culture. Like most other cultivated orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes, or air plants. Because they are epiphytic, they have developed water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen. They are accustomed to being dry at the roots between waterings, and therefore should be potted in a very porous, free draining medium. LIGHT Is one of the most important factors in growing and blooming cattleyas whether in a greenhouse setting or in the home. Bright light to some sun must be given to the plants, but no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded-south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home and 30 percent to 50 percent of full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color. TEMPERATURES: Recommended temperatures are 13 to 16 degrees C (55 to 60 F) at night and 21 to 30 degrees C (70 to 85 F) during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures 2 to 4 degrees C (5 to 10 F) higher. A 4 to 8 degree C (10 to 20 F) differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 35 degrees C - 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased. WATER: Should be provided in two ways: in the pot by watering and in the air as humidity. Watering in the pot is dictated by many criteria - size and type of pot, temperature,light, etc. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need slightly more constant moisture. Compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size and type of medium; it can indicate if a plant needs water. A freshly sharpened pencil inserted in the potting medium can be an indicator of moisture. If in doubt, it is best to wait a day or two until watering. Plants in active growth need more water than plants that are resting. Water below 10 degrees C (50 F) may injure plants, as will softened water. HUMIDITY Cattleyas need 50 to 80 percent relative humidity. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water so that the plants stand above the water. Misting the plants in the morning only is helpful in dry climates. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity and/or cool temperatures exist. In the greenhouse the humidity can be increased by wetting the floor. Evaporative cooling increased humidity while cooling the air. FERTILIZER Must be given to cattleyas on a regular schedule. In fir bark, a high-nitrogen (30-10-10) formulation, or a similar proportion, is used. High-phosphorus or bloom booster (10-30-20) formulation may be used occasionally (every 4 to 6 applications) to make sturdy growths and promote healthy blooming. When in active growth, plants need fertilizer every two weeks, and when not growing, once a month. Fertilizer can also be applied with every watering at one quarter recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent buildup of fertilizer salts. POTTING: Is necessary when 1) the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot, or 2) the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly (usually after 2 to 3 years). It is best to repot: 1) just before new roots sprout from the rhizome, 2) after flowering, or 3) in the springtime. Mature cattleyas are usually potted in medium-grade potting material; seedlings in fine-grade. Until a plant has six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, 3 to 5 bulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for 2 to 3 years of growth before crowding the pot. Place a small cone of potting material in the bottom of the pot, cut off any rotton roots, and spread the firm, live roots over the cone. Fill the pot with medium, working it around the roots. Pack firmly; stake if necessary. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots for awhile to promote new root growth. A vitamin B1 solution may help re-establish plants quickly. References Admirers of cattleyas have penned dozens of articles and books to share information on these showy orchids. With a modicum of effort, it's easy to start your own library of cattleya books that will equip you with the skills ne cessary to succeed with these dynamic New World Orchids.
Cattleya, Part I:
Cattleya, Part II: The Unifoliate Cattleyas, by Guido J. Braem (BK 6027) 1986. Treatment of 19 unifoliate cattleyas, following the same format as BK 6026. Text in English and German, with a list of synonyms and flowering periods. Many color phot ographs and drawings.
The Cattleyas and Their Relatives -- A popular monograph of bifoliate and unifoliate Cattleya species with 79 color photos, it follows the same format as the author's book on Laelia species (BK 652).
The Cattleyas and Their Relatives -- The successor to the very popular and authoritative volume on cattleyas (BK 611), this monographic volume devoted to laelias is as complete and definitive as we could hope.
The Cattleyas and Their Relatives -- This monograph complements the author's earlier books on cattleyas (BK 611) and laelias (BK 652). Thoroug h discussions and descriptions are provided for Schomburgkia and Sophronitis plus lesser-known genera, such as Isabelia, Loefgrenianthus, Pinelia, Pygmaeorchis and Renata. A fantastic resource with unique perspectives from a master plantsman. Hardcover. 87 color photographs, some line drawings. 196 pages. $39.95
Laelieas de Mexico, Written in Spanish, this monograph treats 11 species and one subspecies of Laelia native to Mexico. Synonyms, etymology, common names, history, identification notes, distribution, habitat, flowering season and conservation status are given for all species, which are illustrated with a full-page color plate and one or two color photographs.
Laeliinae Intergenerics, W. W. Goodale Moir and May Moir, pioneers in intergeneric hybridization, discuss all natural and hybrid genera in the Cattleya subtribe registered until 1982. Fo r each hybrid genus, the registration date, frank evaluation of the cross and recommendations for future breeding efforts are all discussed. Cattleya lovers and hybridizers alike should own this book as well as others in the series.
One-Stop Reference Books: Prepared in 1993 by the American Orchid Society, this volume is devoted to Brassavola, Cattleya, Epidendrum (including Encyclia) and Laelia plus 111 intergeneric hybrid genera. This Cattleya One-Stop Reference Book is one of several in a series of softcover, spiral-bound volumes that list orchid hybrids registered with The Royal Horticultural Society between 1856 and 1991, and all AOS awards granted from 1932 through 1991. Der ived from the RHS Orchid Database and the AOS Awards Database, these authoritative references are of value to judges, hybridizers, commercial growers and anyone else interested in parentage of hybrids and awards granted to orchids by the American Orchid Society. The hybrid data is compiled in the familiar Sander's one-table format, which offers an efficient way to research family tree and registration data. These research references do not include information on how to grow, propagate or breed orchids. Instead, they list orchid names of use to hybridizers, judges and others wishing to know the parentage of orchid hybrids.
You Can Grow Cattleya Orchids, A paperback companion to the author's other book in the series, this one focuses on the Cattleya Alliance.
|
|
|
http://www.sunshinethailand.com/page/6
Filed under: General, Miscellaneous, Recommend (Don't Miss), Travel — Thanyhing Travel Thailand @ 2:59 am
 Chang Kra – The Wild Orchid in Thailand Chang Kra – The Wild Orchid in Thailand Chang Kra ( ช้างกระ ) / Rhynchostylis gigantea (Lindl.) Ridl. Or “Aung-Tok-Toh ( เอื้องต๊กโต ) is the Attractive Wild Orchid in Thailand . This orchid can be find all area of Thailand ,except the southern . Chang Kra is popular to plant for THE ORCHID LOVER . Because the big size and shape of Chang Kra , so we call them in Thai “ Chang “ meaning is Elephant .This orchid show some purple or pink spot disperse on the petals , we call this style in Thai “ Kra “ .So we image this orchid look like the Elephant with spot on surface , or “ Chang-Kra “ in Thai Language . At North of Thailand ,the local people found and image this orchid look like gecko ( local language call “Tok-Toh” that nearly voice of Gecko ) and local language call Flower is “ Auang “ . So north people usually call this orchid by local language is “Auang-Tok-Toh” . There are various color of Chang-Kra as white , pink , purple ,orange ,red and disperse with a lot of color spot on petal . Chang Kra will produce a nice flower in December to January with the impressive fragrant .  Have you even seen Chang-Kra Orchid in Thailand.? If you are the one of orchid lover ,Don’t miss to take some photos . This is the one of the Unforgotten memories. Photo @ Royal Flora Expo -Chiang Mai ,THAILAND.
|
|---|
Top
